Tile Setting Recommendations
Inspect all products BEFORE installation for visible defects.
The performance of a properly installed thin-set tile application is dependent upon the durability and dimensional stability of the substrate to which it is bonded. The following recommendations are from the Tile Council of North America (TCNA) Handbook for Ceramic Tile Installation 2005 and are general in nature. www.tileusa.com
- Exterior and Interior: (masonry or concrete) TCA W201-05, W202-05, W211-05 or W231-05
- Interior Metal Studs: TCA W241-05 (must meet ASTM C955 or ASTM C645) or cementitious board units over wood or metal stud* (CBU) TCA W244-05
- Wood or Metal Studs: under gypsum board in dry areas only TCA W243-05
- Bathtub Walls: (wood or metal studs, cement mortar beds cured 7 days) TCA B411-05 or (CBU) TCA B412-05
- Shower Receptors, Walls: (wood or metal studs, cement mortar beds cured 7 days) TCA B414-05 or (CBU) TCA B415-05
- Countertops: (cement mortar beds cured 7 days) TCA C511-05 or (CBU) C513-05
- Swimming Pools: (cement mortar beds cured 7 days) TCA P 601-05
Note: It is CRITICAL to follow these instructions with glass tile installation.
Membrane (ANSI A.2.1.8) of # 15 roofing felt or 4-6-mil polyethylene film is required behind CBU. All joints on CBU should be taped with the CBU manufacturers’ recommended mesh tape and allowed to cure 24-48 hours prior to installation.
All surfaces to receive tile should be clean of dust, dirt, and moisture.
Glass tile expands and contracts more than ceramic and porcelain tile. The movement needs to be accommodated in the installation, particularly where temperature changes occur. Use caulked joints on all inside corners where walls intersect, especially in showers, backsplashes, and cook top areas. This recommendation is a standard installation procedure, but frequently ignored with ceramic tile.
Studio L Glassworks tile can be cut with a glass cutter (score and snap technique), with a new scoring wheel and oil, or a standard wet saw and NEW smooth continuous diamond coated blade designed to cut glass. Push the tile slowly through the blade (pushing too fast or hard will cause the glass to chip). The edge will be sharp and needs to be finished, smooth with a diamond hand pad or similar abrasive tools. A small container of touch-up coating and brush is provided to touch up any cut edges. Coating may need to be applied in layers to get desired match. Once coating is dry to touch it can be installed.
Drill holes with a diamond core bit on low speed (250-300 rpm). Keep the tile and drill bit moistened with water to prevent glass from cracking. If attaching objects with anchoring bolts, drill all holes 1/8” larger than fitted size to avoid stress transfer to tile.
If possible, drill before installation. Drilling before installation is easily accomplished by drilling from both sides. This will help reduce chipping and cracking.
Cement-based installation products are recommended for installation.
Mastics and epoxies should be avoided due to low flexibility, yellowing, low bonding strength, and degradation in UV sunlight.
- Mix all setting material according to adhesive manufacturer’s specifications.
- Use a 3/16” square-notched trowel to apply materials.
- In additional to coating the surface with setting material, “back-butter” each tile with a thin, even layer of setting material.
- Gently press tile into setting material, leaving 1/16 space between each tile for grout. Do not push tile into the setting material to avoid unwanted oozing between tile edges.
- Adjust alignment of tile upon setting.
- Give all tiles sufficient drying time (see adhesive manufacturer’s instructions).
- Remove all excess setting material with damp cloth or sponge.
Grout mix shall be used in accordance to manufacture’s specifications. A non-sanded grout is recommended to avoid surface scratches.
Epoxy grout should not be used due to lack of flexibility and degradation in UV sunlight.